Brewologist | Scarlett On Brett, a wild red ale

• Scarlett on Brett is a wild red ale that uses a special type of yeast to achieve deep, almost wine-like flavor
• It is 8 percent alcohol by volume, and just 50 International Bitterness Units
• This Fort Collins Brewery seasonal offering should be available through July

My wife teases me occasionally because she thinks I have a thing for redheads.

I'm not ever going to go astray, mind you, because I am a very lucky man and I know it, but the truth is, yes, a redhead can turn my head.

The latest redhead to do so was on a beer label. The beer is called Scarlett On Brett, and it is a wild red ale from Fort Collins Brewery in Colorado. The label features a portrait of a strawberry blonde gazing from beneath a red hood, sort of a Disney princess version of Red Riding Hood. To be honest, though, it was the word "Brett" in the name, plus the fact that I have opened more than few good bottles of beer from Fort Collins Brewery, that made me purchase a couple of bottles.

Brett is a nickname for Brettanomyces, a yeast genus that is sometimes used in wine and, occasionally, in beer. Hops and grains tend to get most of the attention in brewing, but yeast plays a vital role as well. It does the work of turning sugars into alcohol during fermentation, and it imparts aromatic and flavor characteristics. Many American brewers turn to Brett to give their beers a twist, particularly when producing something inspired by Belgian styles.

Fort Collins used Brett to produce a unique brew, a definite standout in the crowded craft beer scene. After sampling my first, I was glad I had tucked a couple into my mixed six pack. I was equally glad when my wife brought me a surprise bottle, because she recognized it as a newcomer at our grocery store and she likes to make my day with a surprise beer now and then.

Billed as a wild red ale, Scarlett On Brett pours a deep brownish-red or reddish-brown, depending on the light. It is capped by a slightly reddish foam if poured vigorously, but the head does not last long, probably a consequence of the beer's fairly hefty 8 percent alcohol by volume.

The aroma carries a mix of stone fruit notes. The label mentions pineapple in the nose, but I got mostly plum, peach and maybe some pear.

The flavor is subtle, softly complex, and immediately reminded me of red wines. I am no kind of wine expert, but I'll try a sip of something red now and then when my wife has a glass, and Scarlett has a least a little bit of a dry red wine thing going for it. It is, however, malty and carbonated enough to remind you it is beer.

The stone fruit notes appear in the flavor, too, especially so when the beer is served at a few degrees above icy cold. When I tried Scarlett straight from the refrigerator, I thought it was OK. When I let it warm up a little, I thought it was very good.

All that plum and peach stuff is a byproduct of the Brett yeast, which grows in the wild on the skins of fruits. It is the yeast that gives this unique brew an almost wine-like profile. The high alcohol content reinforces that, by providing a slightly boozy undercurrent of flavor.

This is not a brew for hopheads; it sports just 50 International Bitterness Units and hops flavors are subdued beneath the subtle mix of fruit sweetness and tartness. It should appeal to people who enjoy the old ale style, such as Old Stock Ale from North Coast Brewing Company or Curmudgeon from Founders Brewing Company. It is not quite the same kind of beer as those, but it is in the neighborhood.

The brewery suggests serving Scarlett On Brett with roasted lamb or nectarine upside-down-cake. Neither of those are common menu items at our place, but I definitely would serve Scarlett On Brett with roast turkey or chicken, and I think it would do well with a medium-rare steak.

Scarlett On Brett is seasonal, and should be available through July.

Brewologist | Unusual style now easier to find

Ohio's beer alcohol limit

I am writing this in advance of a holiday deadline, so by the time you read this Gov. John Kasich already might have signed a bill lifting the 12 percent alcohol by volume cap on beer sold in Ohio. There hasn't been a lot of opposition voiced; brewers would like to be able to expand their offerings and make big barleywines and other high-alcohol brews like their counterparts in many other states. Many craft beer fans, ever on the lookout for something new, look forward to a wider variety of choices.

One opponent, though, is Dan Gates, who formerly led Ohio Brew Week in Athens. Marc Bona at Cleveland.com recently quoted Gates as saying beer is viewed as a "beverage of moderation," and he'd just as soon see it remain as such.

I have two rejoinders to that. First, no one is going to stop making the lower alcohol beers, and people still will be able to enjoy those even if higher-impact beers become available. Gates still will be able to buy and enjoy the beers he likes. That's what the craft beer scene is all about — variety.

Second, on a more selfish note, I want to be able to buy 120 Minute India Pale Ale from Dogfish Head Craft Brewery in Ohio. Mr. Governor, I will lend you a pen if you need one. Sign this bill, please.

Brewologist | Green Flash has a beautiful, pepper-infused stout

Beer talk

If you'd like to suggest a beer for me to review, tell me I'm just plain wrong about your favorite brew or ask a beer question, feel free to tweet me; I'm @Brewologist. You can find Brewologist on Facebook and Pinterest, too.

Steve Goble writes Brewologist, a weekly craft beer column, for Media Network of Central Ohio. Email him at sgoble@gannett,com. You can find Brewologist on Twitter, Facebook or Pinterest.