New downtown bakery starting from scratch

ZANESVILLE – Within two hours, all of the pastries on display at Four Turns Baking Co. had been sold.

Four Turns' official opening Tuesday morning was a booming success, but there was no time for gloating. Minutes after selling off her last croissant, Betsy Skrobot was donning an apron and rolling out a fresh batch of homemade dough in preparation for a shipment.

Retail sales are just a portion of Skrobot's artisinal croissant business she began in her home eight years ago. The move to Fourth Street, and the recent acquisition of a commercial license, allowed her to supply bakeries, hotels and grocery stores across the country. Grocers in Worthington and Granville are already stocking her croissants, as is Giacomo's on Maple Avenue.

"I want this place to be more than somewhere you just come in and buy a doughnut," Skrobot said. "I have to look at what I do the best, what I offer that no one else does, and that's my croissants."

Skrobot worked for years as a pediatric nurse. The impetus for her transition to culinary aficionado was simple: more kids, more cooking.

"The older I got, the more I started looking at developing new and interesting recipes."

Croissants became Skrobot's specialty. It's a three-day, labor-intensive process, requiring "four turns" to layer the dough with a sheet of butter. Each turn must be spaced to achieve an even temperature and proper maturation. For years, she's been baking them at her Zanesville home and selling them at farmers markets statewide. The response was overwhelming.

"No one at the markets seemed to want to do croissants," Skrobot said. "Every morning, I'd have lines of 15 people or more just waiting for me to open."

As clientele grew, Skrobot eyed the Danker Building on Fourth Street. When the building went up for auction last May, she knew it was time to act. It took the better half of a year to transform the 91-year-old building into the modernized loft-style bakery and showroom there today. The floors and walls were refinished, and a wall was demolished to add space and give customers a glimpse of the baking process.

"I really wanted an open kitchen design and lots of natural light. I want people to see what I'm doing back there."

Four Turns croissants can be picked up in person or shipped direct to consumer. The premolded dough is frozen and oven-ready, Skrobot said.

"It's super easy. Just set it on the baking sheet and cover it. Go to bed and let it rise, then in the morning you throw it in the oven, and by the time you're done with your shower, it's ready."

Skrobot's custom work has included weddings, parties and a bridal shower this Saturday. Her first baking class, "Creams and Curds," will be March 28. Sign-ups, as well as a full-list of upcoming cooking classes, is available at FourTurnsBakingCo.com.

This summer will commence the "little dough project," a collaborative effort with Big Brothers Big Sisters to sponsor a child to learn how to bake with an adult. Donations and a portion of all croissant sales will go to sponsor a child's spot in a cooking class.

"I love the vibe of downtown, I love this building, and I want to bring something different to the community. I knew it was the right time when I started here. I've never questioned it."

Croissants aren't the only thing on Four Turns' bill of fare. Muffins, cookies, breads and brownies are all part of the constantly morphing menu. Almost everything at Four Turns is produced locally, with some ingredients such as herbs and tomatoes grown in Skrobot's backyard.

The items offered this week won't be the same next week. Skrobot said she'll always have plain and chocolate croissants, but as for the specialty stuff, it partly depends on her mood and what's in season.

"Customers get bored seeing the same stuff, and I do too. I like to show creativity."

poneill@zanesvilletimesrecorder.com

740-450-6753

Twitter: @PatrickZTR

Feeling hungry?

Four Turns Baking Co., 111 N. Fourth St., will be open from 7:30 a.m. until all pastries are sold every Tuesday. To order Betsy Skrobot's croissants, visit FourTurnsBakingCo.com. Select local pickup and Skrobot will email you when the order is ready. For orders of less than 12 croissants, call 740-704-7517.